As a new quilter (and even as a more experienced, but less prolific quilter), I would struggle with attaching binding to my quilts.
I’d refer to my Happy Endings book each time I came to that part of the quilt-making process and try to remember how to prepare and put on binding. Even after I understood the technique, there would be so much time in between bindings that I couldn’t remember how to do it.
While trying to get the end my stitching to the exact size of my seam allowance, I’d use a familiar tool, mostly used in garment construction. One brand calls it a “Rule ‘n Gauge”. In addition to providing a precise measurement, I use the straight edge of this little tool to give me a perfectly square fold for my binding corners. While any straight edge will do, this is a thin and readily available tool that has passed the test of time for me.
Having made 14 patterns in nine months, stitching on binding is second nature to me, but I still use the Rule ‘n Gauge every time.
What’s your favorite binding tool?
Remember to add prairie points (Click here) for easy hanging options before you turn your binding!
Headed to Paducah for AQS Quilt Week? See you at Hancock’s of Paducah! Take a picture with any or all of the ten #usebothsides quilts and post on Facebook with the hashtag for a chance to win a pattern of your choice!
When time and cuteness matter, this Lickety-Split Quilt Binding is the binding for you!
The Lickety-Split Quilt Binding technique for finishing quilts is helpful, time-saving, and attractive. By nature, it aids in a more perfect machine-attached binding for your quilts. Here’s how:
The binding is made by combining two differing strips to make the binding. One acts as an accent that appears next to the quilt. The accent looks like a flange or piping along the edge of the binding. And, here’s the best part, the accent doubles as a stitching guide. You’ll attach your binding to the back of the quilt, turn it to the front and stitch in the ditch of the accent and binding fabrics. When you use a bobbin thread that matches your backing, your finished product has a clean stitching line along the edge of your quilt backing.
I originally saw this idea years ago on Pinterest. This method produced a wider binding than is generally used these days. I’ve adapted the idea several times to product a variety of sizes, based on your needs. I don’t consider Lickety-Split Quilt Binding for all my quilts, but there is definitely a time and a place for it! I’ve used this technique of binding numerous times. It’s great for things like utility quilts, baby quilts (the ones which will be well-loved and get lots of use), seasonal quilts, table runners, etc. I’ve used it on several seasonal quilts, which see the light of day for about one month a year and therefore don’t need a hand-turned binding.
Here is the original pin for this binding technique. I wish I knew who Susie was because I’d like to personally thank her for this binding idea!
The best part about this binding technique is the tiny burst of interest you achieve with the accent fabric. This strip gives your needle a perfect nesting spot for stitching it down by machine.
Lickety-Split Quilt Binding finishes at either two and one/fourth inches or 2 inches. I like the smaller size for smaller art quilts, table runners, and wall hangings.
2 1/4 inch binding:
Main binding strip: 1 1/4″
Accent strip: 1 1/2″
2 inch binding:
Main binding strip: 1 1/8″
Accent strip: 1 3/8″
Simply cut your strips and sew them end to end and press like normal binding, but do it for both colors.
Then sew the two long strips together, press seam to the binding color.
With the seam facing down, align the edge of the binding along the edge of your quilt and stitch a 1/4 seam (or smaller than your final stitch seam), connecting the ends with your favorite method. Lastly turn your binding to the front of your quilt and stitch in the ditch between the two fabrics. I like to use a seam guide and move my needle to a comfortable spot.
Note: I have not used this method on show quilts or nicer quilts which call for a hand-turned binding. I did notice at our last guild show that one of the quilts in the winner’s circle (triangle) had a machine-attached binding, so it’ll be interesting to see where the quilting world goes with this!
What’s your favorite binding method for fast quilts? Tell me in the comments below. Sign up below for notifications and you’ll never miss a post.
Stay tuned for some exciting news from Creative Bee Studios!
A Chorus Line rehearsal at The Conservatory of Theatre and Dance at Southeast Missouri State University
On the Line
One…single, sensational tip… for show-quality quilt binding.
It’s a great idea. This is a pop-yourself-on-the-forehead kind of tip–and that’s exactly what I did when I first learned it.
You’ve trimmed your quilt and sewn on the binding. Next, you need to turn your binding. The trick to great binding is, of course, to have equal binding on the front and back of your quilt–WITH a filled edge. That involves a bit of math and precise stitching.
Just attach your binding as usual (generally by machine on the front). Grab a piece or ball of yarn. The length can be longer than the perimeter of your quilt or shorter and you can use more than one piece. Simply lay the yarn at the edge of your trimmed quilt and fold your binding over it. The yarn helps to fill the binding and makes it have a nice fold. You can “fit” different sizes of yarn before you begin stitching to see which size gives you better fill and gives your consistent width on the front and back of your quilt.
A bit of yarn makes your binding better!
I like to use white or neutral yarn for light bindings and it doesn’t matter the color on darker bindings.
Now, I am big on giving credit where credit is due and I am sorry to say I can not determine the name of the person who first came up with this idea. I can tell you, it wasn’t me!
If you are like me, some quilts call for perfect binding and some are “get-‘er-done” bindings. No matter if your quilt is going to competition or be used every day, a little yarn in the mix will make your binding BETTER!
So, do you want to know who’s in that chorus line above? My kiddo! She’s playing the role of Cassie (wears red, oldest auditioner–last chance to dance–she sings and dances to “The Music and The Mirror”). The show opens in three days and I haven’t even begun her “shoe” quilt yet (see It’s All About The Shoes and “Sweet Dreams…of You” !)
UPDATE: Here she is as Cassie! Click on any of the below pics for a video clip from her role in the show.
Jacquelyn Kiefner as Cassie in A Chorus Line
Jacquelyn Kiefner as Cassie in A Chorus Line
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Discover a quick quilt hanging method to display your quilts!
Let’s face it…quilts take time. We really should cherish each step of the process. But, if you’re like me, it’s those last few steps that sometimes really test your patience:
Firstly, the binding…
Then the label…
Last, the SLEEVE…ugh!
Now, here is a fast, easy way to attach a hanging sleeve, with just a few quick points – Prairie Points!
Start with a few squares of fabric, fold them diagonally twice and lay them on your quilt. Next, baste with your machine, using a seam width that is smaller than your binding seam. Lastly, stitch the points by hand with just a few stitches! That’s it! It’s that easy.
Now let’s break it down:
For instance, if you have a small wall hanging, 5 inch squares will do. But if you have a large quilted wall hanging, 12 – 16 inch squares will work. The number you need depends on how large you make them and the size of your quilt. You’ll see, as soon as you fold one and hold it up to your quilt, how many you’ll need. This method is so much faster and easier that the traditional “sleeve”, you’ll be looking forward to using this method on your quilts!
So, for this tiny wall hanging (11 inches wide), I am using two five-inch squares.
For small pieces, I like to use an even number of triangles so that the center is open for hanging it on one hook or nail. Of course, larger pieces need to be hung by two points, so the number of triangles attached to the quilt depend only on how many you want to add. For example, my 90 -inch wide quilt has 7 triangles which started with 12 1/2 inch squares.
Also great about this method, if you have a particularly heavy quilt to hang, you can add additional rod support in the center of your quilt in between two triangles.
To begin, fold a square diagonally once, press. Fold that triangle
diagonally again, press. Do this for all of the squares. Secondly, lay them at the top of your quilt, cut edge, lining up with the top edge of your quilt sandwich. Pin in place. Next, machine baste within the seam of your binding (whether the binding is on yet or not). Lastly, use a needle and thread (I like to use doubled thread for this) to stitch down each point, securing with several stitches.
Finally, attach and turn binding as usual and your quilt is ready to hang!
All Creative Bee Studios patterns provide Prairie Point Hanging Method instructions. Shop Patterns HERE.