Tag: Quilting Techniques (Page 2 of 3)

The Tricky Traits of Value in Quilts

Estimated reading time: 6 minutes

Choosing fabrics for quilts isn’t hard, but it can be tricky.

Choosing fabrics for quilts involves auditioning the color, size of motif, and value of the fabrics. I have long thought I understood the value of fabric values. Value is what makes, say, a simple, two-color quilt have bold areas of light and dark. Value also makes those cool secondary patterns in your multi-color quilt design appear like magic.

Easy, right? I thought so. However, a few years ago (actually about 20 now), Blended Quilts became popular. I became mesmerized by blended quilts. I bought the books and studied them, reading about fabric choices and how to combine fabric values to work together, while not being too obvious. Turns out, I never did really “get” it. It was too hard for me to look past the floral motifs and colors. Thankfully, our guild had a program presenter who sold blended kits! Problem solved (for the moment).

Turns out, choosing fabrics for quilts based on value can be tricky!

For the record, I love all kinds of quilts.

Karla

My Grandma Emma Wichern’s lavender and white embroidered quilt is precious to me. Simple, clearly defined values. But I also love those wild “crazy-quilts” which practically shout in all dark values. Modern is fun, bright, and happy…or sometimes calming and simple. I have a passion to some degree for all types of quilts. But what really gets me excited about a quilt is when it is successfully splashed with all kinds of rich, colorful and different fabrics…and it works! Value is what makes the magic happen in those quilts.

To truly know the value of fabrics, you have to remove the color.

You can do this numerous ways, but the simplest trick for me is to take a picture of fabric choices or my blocks on my design wall with my phone and change the picture to black and white (mono or noir). Colors and motifs can fool you. For us quilters, fabrics aren’t just fabrics. They evoke emotion (usually happiness). I used to fall in love with a fabric, or line of fabrics, and be determined to use it because of my emotional connection. Consequently, I’ve made some quilts that turned out okay, but had the potential to be brilliant.

When choosing fabrics for quilts, remember that values change depending one their surroundings.

That’s the tricky part! A quilter once said, “My Light looks too dark when I use that light of Medium.” Okay, that was me who said that, but it’s true! And, it can be tricky.

Light. Medium. Dark.

The fact that my neat little piles of lights, mediums, and darks can change their values, depending on what is around, them was a “V8” moment for me!

Let’s look at this dragonfly quilt for an example.

Lilly’s background is made of scrappy, light neutrals with a couple of colorful accent strips. The background is light when compared to the dragonfly focus fabric. The flowers at the top of the quilt are made from the reverse side of focus fabric. The flowers “read” as a medium value. Clearly the dark value of the dragonfly is what you notice first. The flowers are secondary. The various background fabrics catch your eye last and allow your eyes to linger on them.

When you are just working on your background, those strips of color can look quite bold and may seem too dark to be part of the background. But when looking at those same fabrics in black/white WITH the focus fabric laying across them, they all fall into the light category and they work!

Image of dragonfly quilt in black and white.
Even the colorful accent strips disappear in this black and white photo.

Phoebee is made with both sides of one focus fabric on a scrappy background. Choosing fabrics for this quilt is how I first learned the nuances of value. Using both beautiful sides of fabric taught me that lesson.

Notice that the boldness of Phoebee’s focus fabric allowed for a variety of values in the eclectic background. Phoebee is clearly the “buzz” of this quilt!

Next, lets look at Belle, the butterfly quilt.

Again, the RIGHT side of the butterfly focus fabric has a dark enough value that it can “handle” a lot from any background fabrics, including the accent strips. However, the REVERSE of the flowers made from the same background fabric are medium to light in value. Some of those flowers might have been lost if the value of the background fabrics were too similar.

In conclusion, choosing fabrics for these quilts might be a little out-of-the-box for some quilters, because they call for mixing so many colors of background fabrics. But if you follow this guideline it’s easy: If the value is right and you like the fabric, use it. It’s freeing to combine lots of “styles” of fabrics, like miniature prints, batiks, grunge and more! I encourage you to combine a variety of fabrics in your quilts. Remember, it can be fun choosing fabrics for quilts, when you take the guess work out of it.

It’s the combination of background fabrics that make these quilts sing!

Karla, designer

Just take a picture.

Read more at Mysterious Values

See How To Use Both Sides for more example quilt photos!

SHOP more than forty-five designs, focus fabric kits and more HERE!

Colorful Wings – Three New Quilt Patterns

Introducing three quilt designs using BOTH sides of your focus fabric.

It all started with Phoebee (See Designing Quilts by Chance) and yardage of a Hoffmann Digital Spectrum print named Crystalia Rainbow.

Classes starting in September. Patterns available now.

After being inspired at quilt market (See Six Favorites from Quilt Market), I knew I wanted to mix lots of different fabric types to make a bee quilt. While I thought the shape of the bee would be “in the mix”, the background is actually where I used a variety of styles of fabrics:

chicken wire fabric from the 90’s, inherited from my mother-in-law, Pat, (love)

modern word fabric,

batiks,

and pieces of selvage…

with a few accent strips of color.

Patterns available in my Etsy shop: https://www.etsy.com/shop/CreativeBeeStudios

My Crystalia fabric became my bee. Her flowers I made from the “wrong” (such a harsh word) side of the same fabric.

I guess you could call the flower technique a “modern broderie perse” (thank you, Kelly). They are made with simple, fusible applique and are cut without fussing about the edges – in fact, I encourage letting background show through as it ties the two sides of the fabric together in the quilt.

In my classes and in my patterns, I point out that all reverse sides of fabric are not alike — audition your front AND back sides with your background fabrics.

The best way for me to describe a good reverse side is to say that it should “sing” just as much as the front, just with lesser value.

Image of Bee Quilt

Phoebee

One thing I liked most about Phoebee was that she seemed to be getting her life and beauty from the flowers. Thanks to the hubby for her name–which in Greek actually is spelled with two “e’s” at the end and means “bright, pure”.

Image of Class FlyerNext came Belle. She’s a French butterfly. Belle means “beautiful” (I NEVER got that about Beauty and the Beast – blush).

I found Belle’s fabric, Estate Gardens by Andover at my local quilt shop, The Golden Needle. I used similar neutrals in her background, but stayed with different shades of gray (some reversed) for the accent strips. Her binding is made with the reverse side out.

Note: I like to mix all shades of neutrals – white whites, beiges, off-whites- and all types of fabrics like tiny prints with batiks and novelties.

Image of butterfly quilt

Last but not least, meet Lily.

Lily is a sweet dragonfly made from Tree of Life fabric by Chong A Hwang for Timeless Treasures, also found at my local quilt shop.  Her background accent strips are in aqua because a) that’s my favorite color and b) I wanted to connect her to the water locales dragonflies love.Image of dragonfly quilt

Visit my Etsy page or The Golden Needle for patterns. If you are interested in weekend or evening classes, let me know in the comments below.

Next up is a review of value, very helpful for auditioning fabrics for Colorful Wings quilts! Don’t miss a post – sign up below for email notification! Thanks so much for following.  Karla

 

 

 

Lickety-Split Quilt Binding

When time and cuteness matter, this Lickety-Split Quilt Binding is the binding for you!

The Lickety-Split Quilt Binding technique for finishing quilts is helpful, time-saving, and attractive. By nature, it aids in a more perfect machine-attached binding for your quilts. Here’s how:

The binding is made by combining two differing strips to make the binding. One acts as an accent that appears next to the quilt. The accent looks like a flange or piping along the edge of the binding. And, here’s the best part, the accent doubles as a stitching guide. You’ll attach your binding to the back of the quilt, turn it to the front and stitch in the ditch of the accent and binding fabrics. When you use a bobbin thread that matches your backing, your finished product has a clean stitching line along the edge of your quilt backing.

I originally saw this idea years ago on Pinterest. This method produced a wider binding than is generally used these days. I’ve adapted the idea several times to product a variety of sizes, based on your needs. I don’t consider Lickety-Split Quilt Binding for all my quilts, but there is definitely a time and a place for it! I’ve used this technique of binding numerous times.  It’s great for things like utility quilts, baby quilts (the ones which will be well-loved and get lots of use), seasonal quilts, table runners, etc. I’ve used it on several seasonal quilts, which see the light of day for about one month a year and therefore don’t need a hand-turned binding.

See Quilting Resolutions HERE for more!

Here is the original pin for this binding technique. I wish I knew who Susie was because I’d like to personally thank her for this binding idea!

The best part about this binding technique is the tiny burst of interest you achieve with the accent fabric. This strip gives your needle a perfect nesting spot for stitching it down by machine.

Lickety-Split Quilt Binding finishes at either two and one/fourth inches or 2 inches. I like the smaller size for smaller art quilts, table runners, and wall hangings.

Image of Lickety-Split Quilt Binding
Binding technique for when time and cuteness matter.

Cutting Guide:

2 1/4 inch binding:

Main binding  strip: 1 1/4″

Accent strip: 1 1/2″

2 inch binding:

Main binding strip: 1 1/8″

Accent strip:  1 3/8″

Simply cut your strips and sew them end to end and press like normal binding, but do it for both colors.

Then sew the two long strips together, press seam to the binding color.

With the seam facing down, align the edge of the binding along the edge of your quilt and stitch a 1/4 seam (or smaller than your final stitch seam), connecting the ends with your favorite method. Lastly turn your binding to the front of your quilt and stitch in the ditch between the two fabrics. I like to use a seam guide and move my needle to a comfortable spot.

Note: I have not used this method on show quilts or nicer quilts which call for a hand-turned binding.  I did notice at our last guild show that one of the quilts in the winner’s circle (triangle) had a machine-attached binding, so it’ll be interesting to see where the quilting world goes with this!

What’s your favorite binding method for fast quilts? Tell me in the comments below. Sign up below for notifications and you’ll never miss a post.

Stay tuned for some exciting news from Creative Bee Studios!

Hang Quilts Using Prairie Points

Use pretty prairie points and just a couple of hand-stitches to hang your quilts.

The Prairie Point Hanging Method is as easy as 1, 2, 3…4 stitches!

1. Fold and press fabric squares diagonally, twice, just like you would when making prairie points.

2. Pin the raw edge of the prairie points (triangles) at the top edge of the back of your quilt, spaced evenly.

3. Baste across the top of the quilt by machine and make four stitches by hand (with doubled thread) on the points of each triangle, making sure you only stitch through the backing and batting.

 

It’s EASY, FAST, and PRETTY! Click here to see this quilt.

Image of back of quilt with prairie points.

Prairie Points Hanging Method

Adjust the size and number of your squares based on the width of your quilt. For example:

My mini wall hanging uses four small, 4-inch squares. See this quilt in A Love Note from Johnny to June

Image of back of miniature quilt.

Miniature quilt hung with prairie points.

Four 7-inch squares make prairie points for a 24-inch wide hanging.

Four 16-inch squares work well for a 48-inch quilt and easily accommodates the largest requirements for our quilt show standards. Simply add more of the same size prairie points for a bed-size quilt.

Image of 48-inch quilt with prairie points.

Bella Piastrella with Prairie Points Hanging Method

 

TIP: For small wall hangings, use an even number of prairie points and you can hang your quilt from a single nail or hook instead of leveling it between two points.

How do you hang your quilts?  Share in the comment box below. 

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Discover How a Flange Can Enhance Your Quilt

Adding a flange to your quilt can add interest, color, and contrast.

A flange is a small strip of fabric, folded in half and attached by basting to the edge of a border, section, or even the final edge of a quilt.

While a flange doesn’t add to the size of your quilt, it can provide a pop of color or a “stopper” if needed. It can be helpful when planning the design of a quilt to add a flange if you don’t want to add a border or if you want to accent a section of the quilt.

It can also be useful to add a flange to an existing pattern. I did so here

Image of Quilt with Flange

This small flange helps the eye connect from the binding to the interior blocks of the quilt. Allietare pattern by Bonnie Hunter.

on my Allietare (pattern by Bonnie Hunter), because I thought it needed just a touch of the aqua between my inner and outer borders to “connect” the interior of the quilt with the binding (also in the aqua fabric). Because a flange doesn’t change the dimensions of the quilt at all, I didn’t need to worry about re-figuring pattern directions for borders.

Most flanges I’ve used were solid or read as solid fabrics, but as you can see, this one is a batik which adds interest as well as color.

Making a flange is super easy:

*Cut two strips of fabric slightly longer than the length of your quilt or area you want to emphasize and cut two strips slightly longer than the width of the working area. The width of your flange strips can be anywhere from 3/4 inch to 2 inches, depending on how much fabric you want showing.  (If you prefer to measure and cut the lengths precisely, you can. There is just no need to do so because the flange will not alter the size of your borders or blocks. Let’s assume the borders are already measured, pinned, and attached carefully to avoid wavy borders and excess fabric. See this post for more information of unruly borders.)

*Fold the strips lengthwise, wrong sides together and press.

*Align the edges of the flange with the edges of your quilt, border, or section. Pinning isn’t necessary, but may help keep the edges aligned. I usually just go unpinned for flange.

*Use a basting stitch and less than a 1/4 seam margin to attach the flange to the left and right sides. Trim excess from edges. In the same way, baste and trim the top and bottom flange onto your quilt.

*Continue with your quilt as you normally would. It’s that easy!

This quilt is an example of using a flange to “stop” the quilt prior to the binding. Without a flange, there wouldn’t be a defined edge. I didn’t want a completely dark binding to be in stark contrast  with the borders, so the flange was just the right amount of stopper needed.

Image of Quilt with Flange

This quilt has a dark flange between the outer border and the binding. Bella Piastrella by Karla Kiefner

When my friend Nancy and I design a quilt or church banner together we often consider the use of flanges – they’re just fun to do!

What technique  do you enjoy using in your quilts?

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Best Tip for Paper Piecing!

This is my single best quilting tip for the paper-piecing technique.

There’s a reason I’m sharing my best tip. However you refer to it, paper piecing, foundation piecing, or foundation paper piecing, it gets me every time!

You may find this account a bit meladramatic…it certainly is tongue-in-cheek!

I suppose if I did paper piecing more often, I wouldn’t need to learn this every…single…time. But, I don’t. And, I do!

Let me start by saying that paper piecing is a very precise way to join fabrics. You will actually sew on the lines printed or drawn on paper. It’s quite a fantastic method for designs that call for perfection. I tend to not choose a lot of quilts that require the precision of paper piecing, so I usually need to do a refresher on the method when I do.

Image of best tip box of paper piecing
This is a partially completed project I inherited from my mother-in-law, Pat.

Since you sew by numbers, it’s the first and second pieces that are only a bit tricky.

Yes, I always have to start with a reminder of how to place the first piece (easy enough). But that’s not the tip!

Throughout my project (or at least the first ten sections), I have to remind myself of this one simple, yet crucial thing. Even though I try and try to guess the smallest (yet large-enough) piece of fabric to cover the next areas in numerical order, it eludes me. 

Over and over, I try to out-think the pattern, certain that my piece of fabric will coverage every bit of the pattern piece, plus seams, all the way to the edge of the design without using a crazy amount of fabric. But alas, again and again, it falls short. It may be tiny, but even a tiny speck of uncovered paper, is obvious when the fabric is missing.

Until I finally GIVE.

One must SUBMIT, I’ve learned, to paper piecing. One must be humbled to the Paper Piecing process and the excruciating fact that…tThere WILL BE wasted fabric! It is the nature of this beautiful beast.

Finally, here is my best tip for Paper Piecing:

Think big.

No, think BIG, really.

Now think really, really BIG!

Karla kiefner

Paper piecing is much more fun when you do!

In conclusion, that’s it! That’s all I’ve got. For me, that’s all it takes to make paper-piecing a fun way to spend an afternoon or MORE!

Image of Paper Piecing Kit
Star Lite Village by Judy Robinson, 1995

More Tips HERE

Hmmm, wonder if I should use paper piecing for one of my friend’s Round Robin borders?  Read the post about our guild Round Robin Challenge, “It’ll Be Fun,They Said” (click here) and stay tuned for updates on the challenge!

Begin to discover the fun technique of using BOTH beautiful sides of fabric HERE!

SHOP more than 45 patterns that use both sides!

What’s your favorite binding tool? Here’s mine at Favorite Binding Tool.

Read about quilt market here: To market, to market to buy a fat…

Let Your Fingers Do the Walking…

Quick tip for dealing with too much quilt top fabric:

Riddle me this:

When does a quilter have too much fabric?

(**see answer below)

Dream Pillow Trapunto

QUICK TIP:

Use your fingertips to walk the fabric smooth when basting a wavy top for quilting.

Each time I load a quilt onto my Handiquilter Avante frame, I take specific steps to assure the quilt is square. With every advance of the quilt, I continue to watch carefully to make sure that the quilt ends up as square as possible.

The one thing I’ve learned from my own quilts and observed in customers’ quilts, that I can measure, cut, and sew as carefully as possible and still, sometimes, there will be an abundance of quilt top fabric for the space it is to occupy (to keep it a squared quilt) . It can be a challenge to baste wavy edges. Over time and many quilts, I developed a trick to make easy work of easing in that extra fabric when basting the edges:

*Start closest to you and stitch away from you (towards the top of the quilt).

*While one hand is moving the machine up the edge of your quilt top, use your pointer and index fingers of the other hand to gently “walk” behind the foot, following it up the side of the       quilt top. As your fingers “walk”, use your fingertips or nails to gently tug the fabric back towards you.

*If the amount of extra fabric is excessive, I like to spritz the quilt top with Best Press, help it dry thoroughly with a warm hair dryer, and then stitch it while walking the fabric. The Best           Press gives the fabric a slight stiffness and seems to shrink it slightly, making the easing process easier.

Oklahoma! by Karla Kiefner Oklahoma Backroads Pattern by Bonnie Hunter

**ANSWER TO THE RIDDLE:  When there is more fabric than space when quilting the top–and that’s the ONLY time a quilter has too much fabric!

How do you handle “sticky situations” when quilting?

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This is NOT paper piecing.

See the incredible work which won the Houston Quilt Festival!

Wow!

Many heartfelt congratulations to Cynthia England for her Handiquilter’s Best of Show at Houston International Quilt Festival!

The last couple of years my friend Nancy and I would search the AQS Paducah show book to see if our “buddies” from England Design were going to be there and we were disappointed to see they were not. I can see now that Cynthia has been a bit busy.

BEST OF SHOW Cynthia Enland

BEST OF SHOW
Cynthia England

Considering this quilt, Reflections of Cape Town, has 8400 pieces, I can see why she was no longer making hundreds of butterflies to demo her technique in her show booth!

I have to say, though, we didn’t just search out the England Design booth to enjoy browsing through her patterns and studying her large masterpieces on display, we liked to visit our “England friends” each year–and they remembered us from year to year. While I can’t think of any vendors who weren’t friendly, these folks were just a little extra special.

Now I’m wishing I had spent a little more effort looking up what Cynthia was up to because I understand that this is her THIRD Best of Show in Houston!

So, what does this mean for me?  It’s time to get out that half-finished, “aging”, England Design kit that I bought years ago and work it up! This little beauty is called Old Grist Mill. Cynthia’s technique is called Picture Piecing and you work on the front of the fabric and there are no papers to tear out of your finished product. For the record, I don’t have a problem with paper piecing, once I get past those first two pieces (blush), but this method is a little more forgiving, and I do appreciate that!

Old Grist Mill by Cynthia England

Old Grist Mill
by Cynthia England

Go to Cynthia’s gallery to see all of her wonderful quilts!

There’s one thing I remember about the England Design booth in Paducah: you walked out of the booth knowing and remembering ONE thing: This is NOT paper piecing.

Have you ever tried this method? Tell my about your experience with making landscape or picture quilts.

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One…Singular Sensation

A Chorus Line at The Conservatory at Southeast Missouri State University

A Chorus Line rehearsal at The Conservatory of Theatre and Dance at Southeast Missouri State University

On the Line

On the Line

One…single, sensational tip… for show-quality quilt binding.

It’s a great idea. This is a pop-yourself-on-the-forehead kind of tip–and that’s exactly what I did when I first learned it.

You’ve trimmed your quilt and sewn on the binding. Next, you need to turn your binding. The trick to great binding is, of course, to have equal binding on the front and back of your quilt–WITH a filled edge. That involves a bit of math and precise stitching.

Just attach your binding as usual (generally by machine on the front). Grab a piece or ball of yarn. The length can be longer than the perimeter of your quilt or shorter and you can use more than one piece. Simply lay the yarn at the edge of your trimmed quilt and fold your binding over it. The yarn helps to fill the binding and makes it have a nice fold. You can “fit” different sizes of yarn before you begin stitching to see which size gives you better fill and gives your consistent width on the front and back of your quilt.

closeupyarn

A bit of yarn makes your binding better!

I like to use white or neutral yarn for light bindings and it doesn’t matter the color on darker bindings.

Now, I am big on giving credit where credit is due and I am sorry to say I can not determine the name of the person who first came up with this idea. I can tell you, it wasn’t me!

If you are like me, some quilts call for perfect binding and some are “get-‘er-done” bindings. No matter if your quilt is going to competition or be used every day, a little yarn in the mix will make your binding BETTER!

So, do you want to know who’s in that chorus line above? My kiddo! She’s playing the role of Cassie (wears red, oldest auditioner–last chance to dance–she sings and dances to “The Music and The Mirror”). The show opens in three days and I haven’t even begun her “shoe” quilt yet (see It’s All About The Shoes  and “Sweet Dreams…of You”  !)

UPDATE: Here she is as Cassie! Click on any of the below pics for a video clip from her role in the show.

Jacquelyn Kiefner as Cassie in A Chorus Line

Jacquelyn Kiefner as Cassie in A Chorus Line

Jacquelyn Kiefner as Cassie in A Chorus Line

Jacquelyn Kiefner as Cassie in A Chorus Line

One...Singular Sensation

One…Singular Sensation

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Prairie Point Hanging Method

Discover a quick quilt hanging method to display your quilts!

Let’s face it…quilts take time. We really should cherish each step of the process. But, if you’re like me, it’s those last few steps that sometimes really test your patience:

Firstly, the binding…

Then the label…

Last, the SLEEVE…ugh!

Now, here is a fast, easy way to attach a hanging sleeve, with just a few quick points – Prairie Points!

Start with a few squares of fabric, fold them diagonally twice and lay them on your quilt. Next, baste with your machine, using a seam width that is smaller than your binding seam. Lastly, stitch the points by hand with just a few stitches! That’s it! It’s that easy.

Now let’s break it down:

For instance, if you have a small wall hanging, 5 inch squares will do.  But if you have a large quilted wall hanging, 12 – 16 inch squares will work.  The number you need depends on how large you make them and the size of your quilt. You’ll see, as soon as you fold one and hold it up to your quilt, how many you’ll need. This method is so much faster and easier that the traditional “sleeve”, you’ll be looking forward to using this method on your quilts!

So, for this tiny wall hanging (11  inches wide), I am using two five-inch squares.

Easy Method for Hanging Quilts

For small pieces, I like to use an even number of triangles so that the center is open for hanging it on one hook or nail. Of course, larger pieces need to be hung by two points, so the number of triangles attached to the quilt depend only on how many you want to add. For example, my 90 -inch wide quilt has 7 triangles which started with 12 1/2 inch squares.

Also great about this method, if you have a particularly heavy quilt to hang, you can add additional rod support in the center of your quilt in between two triangles.

To begin, fold a square diagonally once, press. Fold that triangle

Folded twice from square.
Folded twice from square.

diagonally again, press. Do this for all of the squares. Secondly, lay them at the top of your quilt, cut edge, lining up with the top edge of your quilt sandwich. Pin in place. Next, machine baste within the seam of your binding (whether the binding is on yet or not). Lastly, use a needle and thread (I like to use doubled thread for this) to stitch down each point, securing with several stitches.

Finally, attach and turn binding as usual and your quilt is ready to hang!

Image of Quilt Hanging Method

All Creative Bee Studios patterns provide Prairie Point Hanging Method instructions. Shop Patterns HERE.

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